Flagler County has an interesting and greatly varied agriculture. Not only is the soil adapted to a large number of different crops, but the year round growing seasons makes it possible to grow from two to four crops on the same ground during the same year. Flagler county farmland never lie idle. Fall, winter, spring or summer, each brings it season for planting the crop best suited to its particular growing conditions.
Beginning with the fall season, ground is usually prepared for string beans, fall crop Irish potatoes and turnips about the last days of August. The beans and turnips; early in September. Closely following these, planting of beets, peppers, cabbage, cauliflower, onions, lettuce and celery can be made, sowing the seed in seed beds with special care and attention can be given to them.
Carrots can be planted in field rows about the middle of September. Toward the end of this month is a good time to begin setting strawberry plants as they bear earlier if given a good start early in the season. Field plantings of English peas may also be made towards the end of September. Rape for winter pasturing calves, hogs and cows, and for chickens is planted at this time.
In November and December many of the October plantings of truck can still be made, particularly such crops as lettuce, celery, cabbage, onions, cauliflower, spinach, English pears, beets, turnips and carrots, all of which it is best to grow successive crops thus taking advantage of a wide range of markets. Sugar cane stalks are sometimes planted during November but do not sprout until the following spring. Citrus and other fruit trees are planted during December with good results.
January brings the time for planting the early Irish potato crop, at present the most important cash crop of Flagler County. The best time of the month for planting is from the tenth to the twelfth although sometimes plantings made as late as the first week of February are successful.
Orange, tangerine and grapefruit trees as well as grapes, peaches, persimmons, pecans, figs, guavas, and other fruits are planted during January and February. The establishment of a Bermuda or Carpet grass pasture seeded with Lespedeza may be undertaken during January or February.
About March first the spring planting seasons opens. Sweet com is the first crop planted after the potato crop and may be planted as early as February twentieth. Watermelons, cucumbers, string beans, tomatoes, squash, egg plant and early sweet potatoes are about the principal cash crops planted during the month of March. Field com, soy beans, sunflowers, pumpkins, sorghum and sugar cane are also planted this month. Citrus and other fruit trees may still be put out.
In April, a number of the winter crops are out of the way and this ground is now in fine rice, cow peas, soy beans, velvet beans, the sorghums, okra, collards, butter beans, and summer spinach, as well as several desirable varieties of cow peas for table use.
During May, June and July, the land not already occupied by sugar cane, sweet potatoes, com and cow peas, rice or velvet beans can be planted to either cow peas or sweet potatoes up to August 1st.
by L. T. Nieland, bunnellfestival.org
July 29, 2018
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Note: This isn’t the whole graphic, only the part about his body gear, you’ll have to hit the jump to see the whole thing (including vehicles, residence, etc.).
There was an article circulating last week about the cost of being Batman, but it was stupid and only included the cost of his Batsuit. You can read that one HERE if you want to, but I don’t recommend it. This one is better because 1. it’s not even an article, it’s just a picture and 2. it includes the really expensive stuff (apparently Batcave prices are through the roof) it would take to become Batman. Unfortunately, they still failed to include the most costly aspect of becoming the Dark Knight: losing your parents as a child. You can’t put a price tag on that.
Hit the jump for the whole graphic provided I didn’t accidentally upload a picture of my dog.
Thanks to Spenkadink and Shane (who either made the graphic or had something to do with it, so feel free to direct your anger at him if you feel something’s inaccurate), who agree the true cost of being Batman is keeping the secret. It’s hard. Like, even harder than not telling somebody what you got them for their birthday.
So you shot some footage for your indie film, but it doesn’t quite look like the stuff you see on the big screen. These simple video editing tricks will help make your footage look a lot more like the stuff the pros shoot.
To spice up your footage, filmmaker and YouTuber Kellan Reck has five tips in the video above that you should consider when it’s time to edit what you have in the can. Keep in mind, all of these tricks require professional video editing software, like Adobe Premiere Pro, which is the current industry standard.
Add movement to stable tripod shots: You can animate the position and the scale. For example, you can zoom in from the initial frame to about 105% at the final frame with the scale pulling up a tiny bit as it zooms. You don’t need too much! Reck recommends you don’t go more than 5% zoom for longer clips, and no more than 2-3% for shorter clips.
Use Warp Stabilizer on shaky handheld shots: Reduces jerky handcam footage to a more relaxed, smooth-looking shot. You can set it to reduce all motion, or better yet, set it to your own preferred motion like you would with a standard stable shot.
Color correct your shots: Add a slight vignette, kick up the contrast, change the temperature, adjust the tint, pull highlights toward orange, pull shadows toward teal, bump up your whites, and bring down your blacks.
Adjust sharpness and film fade: Boost the sharpness a little to make things look clearer, then increase the film fade to give it that classic movie look.
Add a letterbox: Letterboxes (the black bars on the top and bottom of the screen) make your digital shot look wider than it is—giving it an appearance that’s very similar to actual film.
Don’t forget: Only make these adjustments in a way that’s best for your shot and the overall feel of your film. You’ll be surprised what a few simple changes will do to even the most basic shots.
Little is sexier than telling a friend or loved one, “Hey, can you give me a minute? I have to finish testing my download speeds, then we can head out to the party.” But if you aren’t checking your Internet speeds on a weekly basis, you might not know when there’s a problem. You aren’t likely to notice a difference between 150 Mbps and 80 Mbps download speeds when you’re browsing websites, watching (1080p) YouTube, or chatting with friends, but if you’re downloading a huge Fortnite update, why drive in the slow lane?
Speed tests aren’t time-consuming or tough to do
Most people can probably get away with pulling up Netflix’s fast.com test once a week or so, but there are a few caveats to consider before you start testing. To get a sense of whether you’re getting the right speeds from your ISP, you’ll first need to know what you’re paying for. (Call them up to ask if you forget.) For the purposes of this article, let’s assume you purchased the “speeds of up to 150 Mbps” package.
Grab your fastest device. Preferably, that’s a desktop or laptop that has a wired, gigabit connection to your router. A wireless-ac device will also work (like a pricey laptop or high-end smartphone you purchased at some point over the past few years), but only if you have a wireless-ac router to pair it with. If you’re using wireless-n for either, this test might not be very practical if you’re paying for faster Internet speeds than what your devices can connect at.
In a perfect world, your router will do all the testing for you. You’ll find this kind of a setup on mesh systems like Google Wifi, which can measure the speeds between your router and your ISP and the speeds between the router and any device connected to it. Other mesh systems like Eero, Orbi, and Amplifi also have various speed tests built directly into their apps—and, depending on the system, might even automatically check (and graph) the speed of your connection once per day.
Google Wifi tests your ISP’s download and upload speeds every day, which is a great way to see if you’ve suddenly lost a lot of speed for no clear reason.
Screenshot: David Murphy
What’s slowing down your connection?
The point of all this testing—and running your tests on the fastest connection you can get between your router and a device—is that you’re trying to find bottlenecks. If you’re paying for a 150 Mbps Internet plan, but you’re using older wireless-n devices with a crappy wireless-n router, you might find it hard to even reach a consistent 150 Mbps (or thereabouts) around your home or apartment—even if you’re sitting in the same room as your router.
If you’re connecting with a wired gigabit connection and only seeing 80 Mbps on a fast.com test, then there are plenty of issues that could be at play: Maybe you’re actually connecting at 100 Mbps instead of 1000 Mbps rate after all. Maybe your ISP is suffering some network congestion at the moment. Maybe someone has hacked into your system and is eating up your connection by running a huge BitTorrent server. Maybe fast.com is screwing up, and you should verify the results on another speed-testing site.
If you never get great download speeds from your ISP, but you’re paying them a small fortune for performance, that’s an entirely different story—one that requires a bit more troubleshooting. For now, let’s assume that everything is great and you’re getting exactly what you pay for… until your weekly testing pulls up a problem.
What to do with all your testing data
Regular self-checks of your network can give you the confidence that you’re connecting at your fastest speeds—or the nagging self-doubt that something is going wrong with your setup.
If you’ve done your testing and your download speeds are approximately the same as what your ISP’s plan calls for, make a mental note of what your tests typically report. Then, test your network in the same fashion once a week or so. If you suddenly notice a huge drop in speeds, you can perform a little quick troubleshooting:
Are you seeing the same speeds when testing with different devices? (That’s assuming they can connect to your router at speeds faster than whatever your ISP’s plan promises.)
Are you seeing the same, slower speeds throughout the day?
If you have a separate router and modem, try resetting one, retesting, and then resetting the other and retesting. Any better?
If you have a separate router and modem, try connecting a device (like your desktop computer) directly to your modem and retesting. Then plug your desktop computer back into your router, and your router back into you modem. That hardware firewall is important.
If you call your ISP, what kinds of speeds are they seeing on their end? (In other words, is this a them problem or a you problem.)
If your ISP is at fault, give them an earful and figure out what, if anything, they can do to give you the network performance you deserve. And if all of these signs indicate the problem is on your end, the fun task of troubleshooting begins. You might have to replace your modem or your router. Maybe new wireless access points around your area are causing a lot of interference. Perhaps something is going haywire with the Ethernet port on your desktop PC. Maybe a recent driver update for your wireless card did something screwy. Your Ethernet cable might be going bad.
Though troubleshooting is not the most fun thing to do, at least you’ll know that you have a problem—which you might not have known before, since few likely pay attention to the speed of their Internet connection as long as everythingfeels fast enough. By checking your network’s speeds on a regular basis, you’ll always know if you’re getting the best performance.
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